Monday was my first real exploration day; trying to make the most of the city and see what I could.
First stop: Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. My first Thai temple and pretty impressive, but I had walked around it and taken enough photos within the 20 minute interval between the ferry I got off and the next one.
Second stop: The Grand Palace, and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Taking your shoes off is pretty common here so I wasn’t surprised when they asked for shoes off in the temple. Only Thais allowed past the barrier to pray, and no photos allowed but a very beautiful sight all the same. The grounds of the Grand Palace are large and expansive, it took me a while to see everything (at least I think I saw everything).
I walked to Khao San Road and against all guide book advice, ate there. A reasonable noodle dish, and damn cheap. Gave me heartburn, or was that the beer?
The National Gallery and Museum of Siam were closed for Songkran, so I walked back the way I’d come and went to Wat Pho, the giant gold reclining Buddha. His feet have a sign that says “don’t touch” which I imagine is because he’s ticklish. This time shoes came off but into a bag you carried round with you.
And then I went back to the hostel, changed out of my disgusting sweaty clothes, and into something else to walk down the road for a massage. I asked for a 2 hour massage and got 1 hour 40 but she used oil which I wasn’t supposed to get so I can’t really complain. I am starting to get the hang of the clothes they give you too - this place was less fancy than the first (no music, no curtains to separate beds) but a snazzy shirt to wear.
Dinner was at the Bonita Cafe because it’s closed in Tuesdays and I wanted to eat there one more time.
Today, it rained. A tuk-tuk driver said he would take me to the ferry crossing, saying “it’s raining”. I said “it rains all the time in London”. At that point it was light, and I bought a small umbrella. And then it got heavy. Like soaked like Songkran heavy.
I had set my heart on a place by the river I’d seen good reviews of on TripAdvisor, and I trudged through flooded backstreets to get to it. I sat in wet socks and drank beer and ate Phad Thai with too much egg (I think that’s normal though) and debated what to do. I had planned to see the King Rama v Monument, but it was quite some walk and maybe I should get back to allow my clothes to dry before leaving tomorrow. I also wanted to go and see the Museum of Siam but could I be sure it was open? Google said so. Should I risk that walk for a museum that Westerners have great reviews of but Thai nationals didn’t?
Well, it was either that or go back to the hostel...
Boat trip back down the river and he Museum of Siam - so worth it. It’s unlike any museum I’ve ever been so in its quirkiness- drawers that played music and smelt like stew (not the same drawer). An explanation of how popular pants and shirts have changed through time. And my favourite - a room explaining how Thai beliefs come from a mix of animism, Buddhism and Brahmism with an elephant statue wish trick. I don’t understand how it worked but it did. I hope my wish comes true!
The rain had finally stopped and I headed back to pack up, aaaaand get another massage of course. That’s the whole reason I’m here!
Third time lucky? I got a two hour oil massage and at times I was bored. She must have massages my head a good 10 minutes, but not in a good way - in a way that made me think she was a bored hairdressers assistant stuck on hair washing duty.
Don’t get me wrong it was decent. But I am yet to find someone that really digs in to those knots!
Dinner at my second favourite place and back home to pack and update this blog.
Ko Samui tomorrow. I hope it lives up to the hype!
Wat Arun, Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Museum of Siam; 16th & 17th April
Ate: Phad Thai, Mango & Sticky Rice, Teryaki Burger
Drank: Soda with green apple, and Singha beer of course
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