A Wet Arrival

Thai New Year, Songkran, is a mix of two things I’m not very comfortable with: large crowds, and getting wet. 

Getting wet is something I have to do under my own terms. Beaches are treated with care, waterfalls and natural pools are to be admired if the water is too cold. I have specific clothes to wear on these occasions. 

Songkran does not care about any of that.  Even outside of the set up zones, water pistols are common props, and the biggest jokers have large barrels of water and bowls, because a spurt isn’t enough. 

Just like (I imagine) any New Year anywhere (in a capitalist society), there are items you really must buy. Vendors on every street sell buckets and bowls, and water guns large and small. Not to forget the waterproof plastic bag for your phone and money, which I really could have done with on Saturday. And if they’re not selling guns and bags, they’re selling water: fill up your super soaker for 10 baht (about 25p). 

On Friday I wasn’t sacred even with my massive backpack and clear “I’ve just arrived wtf is going on” face. But Saturday I was fair game. To be fair, so were the police searching bags going into the big water war zone at the end of Silom Road. I wasn’t ready; normal canvas bag slung over my body, I got soaked. I squelched through the street, walking as fast as I could without trying to attract attention. It didn’t work. 

 

I think if I had been actively participating I wouldn’t have minded. Some water was pleasantly warm, out in the sun for a while. And you could never do this at New Year in the UK, we’d all get hypothermia. 

After finishing my book (already!) at the park I had set out to go to, I ventured back, but not the way I came. I got the train (a safe space apparently) but as soon as I got off I had to walk past a bunch of guys with a massive barrel who soaked me all over again. Such is the way of Songkran it seems. 

I don’t know if my trainers will ever dry but hairdryer in one of the bathrooms could expedite the process if necessary. I had to lie out all my money to dry it out. I can only hope my clothes dry before I leave in 3 days. 

Because of Songkran, when I ventured to the Grand Palace today I was turned away and told “not today, come tomorrow”. Locals only today. Good because I can be more prepared with longer trousers and a shirt that fits me. If God made us in his image, why do people insist on covering legs and shoulders in special places?

More to the point, Buddha wears barely anything! 

Having got the ferry to Tha Chang and not getting charged, I got it to Rachawongse, the nearest ferry stop to Chinatown. With no book on me I keep me occupied, I hoped to find a restaurant I could chill out in and watch Netflix. No such luck. Lots of places were closed, although I did find a Tesco store. 

I trudged back through the street back to the ferry and went home. At which point I got absolutely soaked by some happy Thais. Home, change, and out to have my first Thai massage.

In 2007, a Thai guy in my class at uni told me how cheap Thai massages were. I was 2 years into my chronic headache at that point so I could only dream of going and fixing my head. 

I paid 330baht for an hour and told to change my clothes. I promptly got undressed and then thought “change my clothes? Into what?” The two small cloth piles I had delicately moved to one side from the towel turned out to be a top and trousers to wear. They were soft and loose and I definitely styled them out lol.

I can’t say it was the best massage in my life, but my back has never cracked so much as when she sat behind me, pulled my arms back and pushed into my spine with her feet. Perhaps I just got a particularly soft one. Whatever, I’m going again. 

Dinner was at a Thai restaurant where I got stir fried veg with rice, followed by mango and sticky rice for dessert. Plus a mango smoothie. See the theme there? 

Songkran is finished, though there are still two days of observation. But walking down the street is a far more relaxing experience. 


Friday, Saturday & Sunday 13-15th April; Bangkok

Watched: Lost in Space - crying over the Robot.

Ate: vegan food from Bonita Café.

Drank: Singha beer of course